Day 137 – EU – Croatia/Bosnia [Ploce to Neum]

08/07/20

43.5km

  From Ploce (Croatia) to Neum (Bosnia)

Europe

Another twist today as I was refused entry at a border checkpoint – the end of my EU Citizen’s freedom of movement?!

I knew I was headed to a special place today: Neum (Bosnia-Herzegovina). I am running down the Adriatic Coast of Croatia for the past 15 days, and with another 3 days of running in Croatia, I am entering very temporarily the coastline of Bosnia-H. How is that possible?

Following the 1991 split of Yugoslavia, Bosnia was given the 2nd shortest coastline in the world (after Monaco will you please) the 12 miles long “Neum Corridor”! Effectively cutting Croatia in two. I will re-enter Croatia tomorrow, for another 3 days to Dubrovnik, before crossing into Montenegro, then Albania and Greece.

As I reached the highest point of my run today, following a few kilometers of uphill in the sun, I was looking forward to what I imagined would be a stunning 5km down the other side of the mountain, with views of the sea and Neum in the background. Well… !

At the top of the mountain, I did reach the border checkpoint. Three guards were in attendance – not a car had passed me on the road I have been running on since early morning, the only road leading to the checkpoint. So… activity at the checkpoint was at an all time low.

They checked my ID card and told me in no uncertain terms: “No pass – only locals”. And handed me my ID back. I was stunned. A couple of expletives rushed to my head but I blocked them before they crossed my lips. Wise move. Why was that? I did not get an answer. That’s how it was. They sent me back to another mountain road, adding a few kms to my day – and onto another checkpoint that was “for tourists also”. Great…

I had been expecting things to be slightly different as I am entering a zone of non-EU member states (Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania). Currencies for instance (though you can get by with Euro in most places). But I was not expecting to be turned down at a border checkpoint, that was a first!

Anyway, today’s route was absolutely stunning. I escaped the main road by cutting cross country in the agricultural region of the Neretva (Narenta) River. Quiet roads and trails with the Dinaric Alps standing tall in the background.

Neum is a pretty new city (built in the 50-60’s) on a hill by the sea. I enjoyed another sea-swim and warm welcome from my host tonight. Another eventful and fab day on the road 🙂

Check my daily run GPS data on or

Here is the map of today’s run: